Learn the gear
What every part is, what it does, and what changes when you adjust it. Plain English, no jargon.
Compound bow anatomy
Arrow anatomy
Printable practice targets
Real target faces people shoot, sized for a regular letter page. Print at 100% (not "fit to page"). Each one has a small calibration square in the corner — when you scan your shot-up target in the app, use that square to set real inches, then tap each dot with the Multi-spot tool and all your arrows stack onto one center.
Five blue-and-white spots in a dice-5 layout. The classic NFAA indoor face — one arrow per spot.
Six black dots in a dice-6 grid. Simple grouping practice at any distance — pick a dot per arrow.
Three gold-red-blue faces stacked vertically, like the Vegas Shoot. One arrow per spot.
Bow parts
The rigid center frame of the bow you grip. Everything else bolts to it.
Adjusting it: Not adjustable itself — but its stiffness and weight affect how steady the bow aims.
The flexible arms top and bottom that store energy when you draw.
Adjusting it: Limb bolts (where limbs meet the riser) set draw weight. Turn both equally, and never back them out past the manual's limit.
The wheels at each limb tip. They give the bow its draw cycle and let-off.
Adjusting it: Cam position sets draw length on most bows. 'Cam timing' means both cams roll over together — if they're out of sync, arrows fly inconsistently.
How much of the peak weight the cams hold for you at full draw. 75% let-off on a 64 lb bow means you hold about 16 lb.
Adjusting it: Higher let-off = easier to hold and aim. Some cams let you change it with a module swap.
Distance from the grip to the string at rest.
Adjusting it: Shorter brace = more speed, less forgiveness of form mistakes. Taller = slower but more forgiving. Set by string length — a shop job.
Distance between the two cam axles — the bow's overall length.
Adjusting it: Fixed by the bow. Shorter ATA is handier in a treestand; longer ATA aims steadier.
Small ring in the string you look through at full draw — your rear sight.
Adjusting it: Set so your eye lands on it naturally at anchor. If you crane your neck to see it, it needs moving (string press job).
The cord loop on the string your release hooks onto.
Adjusting it: Length affects anchor feel and torque. Too long wastes draw length; too short pinches the nock. Checked with your release and form.
The pin(s) or dot you aim with, mounted on the riser.
Adjusting it: Follow the arrow: group hits left, move the pin left. Only adjust when groups are tight enough that the offset is consistent.
Holds the arrow on the bow before and during the shot.
Adjusting it: Rest position sets center shot (how the arrow lines up with the string). Small moves change left/right flight — tune with a pro or paper test.
The rod sticking out front. Adds steadiness and soaks up vibration.
Adjusting it: Longer/heavier = steadier aim but more weight to carry. Balance the bow so it sits level at full draw.
Arrow parts
The plastic clip at the back that snaps onto the string.
Adjusting it: Must fit your string diameter — too tight or loose hurts consistency. Lighted nocks weigh more and shift the balance point back.
The fins that steer the arrow in flight.
Adjusting it: Longer or more angled (helical) vanes steer broadheads better but cost a little speed. 2" vanes with a slight offset are a solid hunting setup.
The tube itself. Its rated stiffness is the static spine (e.g. 300, 400).
Adjusting it: Lower spine number = stiffer shaft. Cutting a shaft shorter makes it ACT stiffer (dynamic spine) but the printed number stays the same.
Static spine is the shaft's rated deflection. Dynamic spine is how it actually bends when YOUR bow shoots it.
Adjusting it: Longer draw weight, longer shaft, or heavier point = need a stiffer spine. This app estimates a starting bracket; confirm with the maker's chart.
The metal sleeve at the front that the point screws into.
Adjusting it: Heavier inserts add front weight: more FOC and better downrange stability, but they make the shaft act weaker dynamically.
The tip — practice points vs hunting heads.
Adjusting it: Point weight changes dynamic spine and FOC. Match practice point weight to your broadhead weight so sight marks stay honest.
How heavy the shaft is per inch of length.
Adjusting it: Higher GPI = heavier, quieter, harder-hitting arrow that flies slower. Multiply GPI × cut length for shaft weight.
How far the arrow's balance point sits ahead of its middle, as a %.
Adjusting it: More front weight (heavier point/insert) raises FOC. Roughly 10–15% is a good hunting target. Only measurable with a balance point — never guess it.
Finished arrow weight divided by your MEASURED draw weight.
Adjusting it: 5 gr/lb is a common floor; 6–8+ gr/lb is a heavier, quieter hunting arrow. Heavier = more momentum, less speed.
Shooting & tuning terms
How far you pull the string back — set by the cam/module.
Adjusting it: Too long causes creeping and string contact; too short costs power and consistency. A pro fitting beats any estimate.
The actual peak pounds your bow pulls, read on a scale.
Adjusting it: Always use the measured number for math — the manufacturer's max is just the top of the range.
Precision = how tight your group is. Accuracy = how close the group's center is to your aim.
Adjusting it: Tight but off-center = move the sight. Scattered = work on the shooter, not the gear.
Twisting the bow with your grip hand during the shot.
Adjusting it: Shows up as left/right scatter. A relaxed grip and consistent hand pressure fix it — not equipment.
Letting the string drift forward slightly at full draw before release.
Adjusting it: Often throws arrows left/low for a right-handed shooter and steals draw length. Usually a draw-length-too-long symptom.
KE = energy the arrow carries (ft-lb). Momentum tracks penetration potential better.
Adjusting it: Both need a real chrono speed. Heavier arrows trade speed for momentum.